Creating one,s own indoor plants

It is usually only the most enthusiastic growers who want to raise their own indoor plants. Others like occasionally to propagate a few as a matter of interest. A few house plants become so unruly and ill-shaped after a few years that it is better to replace them periodically, and then, of course, it is more economic to raise their replacements. When contemplating doing this, however, it is important to remember that with plants that have originated in humid, warm semi-tropical and tropical areas, it is not always possible for many householders without a heated greenhouse to create the conditions necessary for success. On a limited scale, it is possible to root some cuttings and germinate some seeds by covering the compost in which they are planted with a polythene bag, supported on four stakes, inserted in the soil in their pots and tied just below the rims with string, so that they are in a sealed atmosphere. If the compost has been well watered and the hooded container placed in a warm place, the conditions of a heated, humid greenhouse would be reproduced.

Gardeners will be familiar with the more common methods of propagation because indoor plants are multiplied in exactly the same way as those that grow in the open. Anybody who wishes to have more detailed information is recommended to consult gardening books that include propagation.

Raising from Seed. The raising of plants from seeds is normally a simple and easy method of propagation, which most people have tried at some time or another. It is dealt with below, when the more novel subject of raising certain indoor plants from fruit stones and pips is discussed.

Layering. This is particularly easy and is a satisfactory way of propagating some indoor plants, particularly Chlorophytum, Ficus pumila, F. radicans, Gynura sarmentosa and Saxifraga sarmentosa, which send out runners like strawberries, with tufts of leaves growing at their tips. If a slanting incision is made in the stem in the vicinity of this growth, the leaves removed and the growing point pegged down securely in potting compost in another pot, roots will usually form within about five weeks, when the plantlet can be cut off from the parent. Air layering. This very useful process is discussed in detail on page 50.

Division.  Most gardeners are familiar with the method of propagating by division, which is usually applied in the spring to indoor plants in exactly the same way as it is to those growing in the open. It is a particularly valuable method for multiplying Acorus gramineus, Aspidistra lurida and Spathiphyllum wallisii.

Cuttings. Just as with outdoor plants, there are three types of cuttings that are usually used for propagating indoor plants, viz. stem, heel and leaf. They are all planted as deeply as possible in a rooting medium, such as a commercial potting compost or a soil-less compost. It is important to plant deeply so that the cutting is well firmed in, in order that there is no movement detrimental to the growing of roots. Although it is not essential if the growing qualities of the soil and the conditions are suitable for the plant, the lower ends of the cuttings can be moistened and dipped into a proprietary hormone rooting compound, which facilitates the formation of roots.

Stem Cuttings are taken by cutting a shoot just below a leaf joint, that is, about six inches from its tip, with a sharp knife or razor blade. All the buds and leaves are removed from the lower half and the cutting planted to this depth. The ivies, Rhoicissus rhomboidea, Cissus antarctica and some philodendrons are good subjects for this type of propagation. In fact, cuttings of tradescantia, busy lizzie, coleus and ivies will easily form roots if merely stood in a bottle of water.
Heel Cuttings are usually taken from wooded plants. A shoot is torn off the older stem leaving a heel of bark. It is reduced to about six inches in length and all the buds and leaves removed from its lower half, to which depth it should be planted. Leaf Cuttings. An adult leaf is cut off its point of origin, preferably in the summer or growing season, using a razor blade or sharp knife. The stalk is then inserted as deeply as possible in a rooting medium. Saintpaulias and begonias respond well to this treatment.

Raising Novelties for Indoor Decorations
All of us remember the enormous pleasure we had when, as children, we planted a peach stone against a sunny, warm wall and had the thrill of seeing it develop into a tiny shrub laden with leaves, and how, in later years, we enjoyed its beautiful pink blossoms and, ultimately its luscious fruits. Such happiness does not die easily in one's heart and many of us still derive much satisfaction from planting unusual seeds and seeing them mature. The pleasure is so great, that often our enthusiasm inspires our children to follow the same exciting course and to raise some exotic plant, which is unusual and beautiful, and, in doing so, explore the intricacies of Nature's ways of reproducing her kind.

It is remarkable how easily so many of the fruit pips and stones discarded from our meal tables can be persuaded to root themselves and become most attractive house plants. A few of these are discussed in the ensuing paragraphs.

Indoor Plants from Fruit Pips
The more common of the citrus fruits-oranges, lemons, tangerines and grapefruit-will take root and produce the most attractive small trees, if their pips are planted. When selecting the seeds for this purpose, a lookout should be kept for the really plump ones. They can usually be collected at any time of the year. Any of them should be washed thoroughly. It is also an advantage to soften them by a soaking in cold water for a full day. They should then be planted, three to a pot, half an inch to an inch deep, according to their size, in a damp commercial potting compost. Next, it is necessary to cover the potted seeds, either with a polythene bag, as discussed above, or with a large glass jam jar, or the seeds may be planted in one of those more recently introduced propagating pots with a well-fitting transparent, plastic hood.

The pots are then kept in a warm, dark place until the pips germinate., They are then put in a light place and shortly afterwards the transparent covering is removed. When a pair of leaves have appeared, each tiny plant is transplanted into its own six-inch pot in a commercial potting compost. If they are kept in a light position with reasonable warmth, they will develop into attractive little trees with very decorative glossy, dark-green foliage.

Indoor Plants from Fruit Stones
The stones of apricots, avocado pears, dates, lychees, and peaches can be made to produce very charming indoor plants, but they are harder to persuade to root than the pips of citrus fruits. Generally, the initial procedure for raising plants from these seeds is the same as described for the pips. It is as well, however, to plant a few spare date stones because several of them might be infertile. One also has to be patient and keep them in a dark place for a much longer time before they germinate. Two months will pass before there are any signs of date stones germinating, while it might be as long as four months with avocado pears. Allow a few weeks to pass after germination; then the seedlings should be re-potted into three-inch pots, using a commercial potting compost as the growing medium.

Kept warm and well-watered, all these small plants grow up into attractive little trees. It should, however, be appreciated that in its habitat, the avocado pear grows to a height of sixty feet. Thus, despite its beauty, it can eventually become far too tall to be accommodated in a normal house.

Pineapple
A particularly novel plant to grow from scrap is a pineapple. With its silvery, long-toothed, curving foliage, it makes a very beautiful house plant, and at no cost. What is more, if grown in a warm room, it will often fruit two years after planting. The fleshy top with a rosette of healthy leaves is cleanly cut off during the spring when it is being prepared for the table. The lower leaves are removed to uncover about one inch of the bare stump. After it has dried out for a few days, it should be planted in moist sand, tying it to a stake to support it.

It should be placed in a warm, light place and the sand watered when it dries out. The sand should be gently probed about once a fortnight, and as soon as roots appear, the pineapple should be transferred to a small pot in a commercial potting compost. During the summer it should be watered quite abundantly, and transplanted if it becomes root-bound. During the winter, it should still be kept in a warm place, but watering should be much reduced. When spring comes, it should be re-potted and the rate of watering steadily increased. After this the pineapple, which will soon begin to grow a fruit stem, should receive a steady liquid feed.