Climbing and Trailing Foliage Plants

Already on pages 9-15 a guide has been given as to the various uses to which house plants can be put and the different growing conditions which are acceptable to them. In this and the next chapter, foliage house plants are described in greater detail. Quite a large proportion of the house plants available in these days are climbers or trailers or both. The present chapter is devoted to this category.

Training and Supporting Climbers
Although some climbing house plants can be quite effectively used as trailers and included in arrangements in hanging baskets, if they are to be effective as climbers they need some sort of support over which they can clamber. Some plants are self-clinging, but most of them have to be tied. When this is necessary, it is important to see that the ties are not so tight that they restrict growth. There are some quite good plastic and paper-covered wire ties and plastic-covered wire rings on the market. These are very good in the case of plants with heavy foliage which keeps them out of sight. In the ordinary way, brown or green string, tied lightly to the support and then loosely round the stem (using a reef knot in both cases), is quite satisfactory.

Some plants, including a few of the Philodendrons, Scindapsus, and the upright growing Monstera deliciosa, produce roots from the stems above ground level. It is advantageous if such plants are provided with a support to which these aerial roots, as they are termed, can cling from which they can draw supplies of water. Such a support, which is known as a moss stick or totem pole, will be described later.

Returning to the first type of climber, which does not produce aerial roots, most of these can be supported by means of canes. In the case of climbers such as ivy, support can be given adequately with a framework formed by inserting three canes at the points of an isosceles triangle at the edge of the pot (see Figure 1, page 34). For stability the stakes should be driven in almost to the bottom of the container. The plants can be effectively trained round such a structure.

Sometimes it is more effective to make a trellis by driving well into the soil canes, set at a slight angle, across the centre of the pot. Then cross-members, consisting of split canes, are lashed to these uprights at intervals of about 4^ inches by means of thin wire (see Figure 2, page 34).

In order to make a moss stick or totem pole, it is necessary to obtain from the hardware store some1/4 inch plastic mesh, which is 30 or 36 inches wide. A strip of this is cut off across the width of such a piece, so that when it is rolled it forms a cylinder about 2.\ to 3 inches in diameter, when its edges are overlapped by about \ inch. These are fastened at intervals of about 6 inches with wire. The cylinder is made more rigid by inserting two sticks, with a square cross-section of such an area that they are held in position by the plastic fabric, through the mesh near the bottom of the cylinder, at right angles to each other. The latter is then stood on the crocks in the container. Next the cylinder is filled to about three or four inches from the top with a mixture of shredded moss and vermiculite or similar material, mixed in about equal proportions. While this is being done, the mixture should be consolidated with the end of a broom handle. The shredded moss should have been well moistened by soaking it during the previous sixteen to twenty-four hours. A sufficiently thick layer of soil is next placed on the crocks, the climber planted and the container filled with soil in the usual way. In order to ensure that the moss mixture is kept continually moist, a small flowerpot is inserted in the top end of the cylinder and this is kept topped up daily with water. The climber is trained up the cylinder and held in position by means of U-shaped pieces of wire inserted on the slant into the moss mixture (see Figure 3, page 37).
Chlorophytum capense' Variegatum' (Spider Plant) is among the easiest to grow and most tolerant of house plants. It grows as a dense tuft of arching leaves, rather like grass, that are edged bright green with a stripe of cream through the centre. Its insignificant white flowers are produced on long, corn-coloured stalks, which stand above the plant. After flowering, small plantlets develop on them and these weigh them down, giving a pendulous or trailing effect and making the plant very effective for hanging baskets. The plant can be easily propagated by layering, i.e. by pinning these tiny tufts down in compost with a hairpin and cutting them off when they have rooted.

It prefers a bright position, but not direct sunlight. It grows best in a medium humid place at a temperature of 650-75°F (i8°-24°C), with a drop of about io°F at night. C. Chlorophytum capense 'Variegatum' should be kept reasonably moist and never allowed to dry out. Repotting into a slightly larger container annually is advantageous.

Cissus antarctica (Kangaroo Vine). This is a very easy-to-grow, tough, fast-growing, self-clinging climber, reaching, if permitted, a height of eight feet. It is excellent grown as a room divider. It has lovely, fresh green oval leaves, which are well veined. It is easily propagated by layering.

Although it does best in good light, out of strong sun, it may also do fairly well in sunless and more shady rooms. It is quite tolerant of lower temperatures and will thrive at a temperature level of 50°F (io°C). It enjoys a medium humid atmosphere. It should be well watered at intervals during the summer and between waterings be allowed to dry out almost completely. It needs very little water during the winter. The variety 'Russikivin' is recommended.

C. discolor has beautiful green, reddish-purple, mottled-white leaves. It is much less easy to grow than C. antarctica, and requires a much higher temperature and moist atmosphere to thrive. It has the disadvantage of tending to lose its leaves in winter, but this can be avoided if given the right conditions. C. striata is very much more delicate than C. antarctica and needs more moisture, but it is useful because it is more dwarf inhabit.

Ficus pumila (Creeping Fig) is a very attractive, small, hardy climbing or trailing plant, which has small, bright-green leaves, with their veins of a much darker hue. It is easy to grow. It produces aerial roots, which cling to a moss stick or, in fact, a rough surface such as a piece of bark, or the outside walls of a container. It is excellent for hanging baskets or for trailing over the edge of dishes. It is easily propagated by layering.

It is a particularly unusual plant because it prefers cool or average rooms. It loathes direct sun, revels in moist air and must be well watered and never allowed to dry out even in the winter. It is tolerant of gas and other fumes.

F. radicans ' Variegata' is very attractive for a hanging basket, but it is a different plant and must be kept in a very moist atmosphere. The temperature of its environment should never be lower than 50°F (io°C). Its rather beautiful, small green and white leaves make it worth persevering with.

Fittonia verschaffeltii (Snakeskin Plant) is a very beautiful trailer with smallish, heart-shaped, dark-green leaves, crisscrossed with a network of crimson veins. It is probably most suited to a bottle garden or a terrarium, but can be trained as climber or trailer in a hanging basket. It is, however, fastidious regarding its conditions. It needs a warm room, with a temperature not lower than 6o°F (i5°C) in the winter; it must be shaded from direct sunlight; and it likes a fairly humid atmosphere. It only requires moderate watering, but it should not be allowed to dry out.
Hederas (True Ivies) are the most valuable of all climbing and trailing house plants and can be most effectively employed for all the functions of this type of plant. They can be planted in baskets, to grow over the edges of bowls, to climb supports of bamboo canes, and as room dividers. It is also becoming the vogue to grow indoors ivy standard plants, using fatshedera as root stock. Although it takes some time to achieve because, to be really attractive, the stem should be three to four feet tall, it is not difficult for a 'do-it-yourself gardener to create his own ivy standard. This is done by first cutting back all the shoots from a fatshedera, except one which is growing more or less vertically, staking it and removing all but the top growth until it has reached the required height. The top of the plant is then cut off and a horizontal cut, half an inch deep, is made across the cross-section of the stem. Four cuttings of ivy, each about four inches long, are inserted into this and they are bound in with raffia or plastic tape.

Hedera helix (Common Ivy). Even this common ivy species, with its deep-green, shiny leaves, makes an excellent house plant. Some of its varieties and those of other species, with their bright colours, and differently shaped, smaller leaves, are even better.

Very useful varieties of the common ivy that are most suitable as house plants are:

H. helix 'Adam'. This has grey-green, variegated, perfectly shaped, tiny leaves, closely packed to the extent of overlapping on the stems. Care should be taken not to wet the centre of the plant, otherwise rotting is likely to occur.

H. helix 'Chicago' has small, dark-green leaves, often stained bronze-purple.

H. helix 'Cristata' is a distinctive form of ivy. It has pale-green leaves that are rather charmingly twisted and crinkled at the edges. It has been likened to parsley, while others have called it 'Holly Ivy'. It likes to be kept drier than other varieties. H. helix 'Glacier' is one of the most effective of the 'silver' ivies with its small, silvery-grey leaves with thin white margins. It is an excellent trailer.

H. helix' Golden Jubilee'. Its leaves are small and golden, with a broad, dark-green margin, which makes it unusual.
H. helix 'Sagittifolia'. This variety has leaves that are five-lobed, the central one of which is large and triangular. They are small and dark green, and have slightly white veins. H. helix 'Shamrock'. This variety has small, very dark-green leaves.

A hedera of another species, which is most popular as a house plant in these days, is H. canariensis 'Variegata', the Canary Island Ivy. It has large leaves, deep green in the middle, fading to silvery grey with a white margin.

All ivies are hardy, except that H. canariensis 'Variegata' should not be exposed to frost. They prefer a shady, fairly cool room, but they can be acclimatized to heat if the air is kept humid. During the winter the interesting colour of H. canariensis 'Variegata' can be preserved by putting it into a well-lit position. Ivies should be kept moist during the summer, but not over-watered. During the winter, the water supply should be considerably reduced. Hederas prefer to be grown in small pots.

Philodendrons. Probably this group contains some of the best-known foliage plants. It is difficult to find leaves of more beauty and with such variable and lovely shapes. These plants probably grow better in the conditions found in modern homes than any other house plants. Little harm comes to them if they are kept warm, if possible in a temperature of not less than 65°F (i8°C), moderately moist, are allowed to dry out between waterings, and out of direct sunlight. They are not difficult to grow, but their beauty is so rewarding that it is worth while giving them just that little bit of extra care. While some are dwarf bush plants, many are climbers.

The most popular of the climbing philodendrons is no doubt P. scandens. It is certainly the easiest of all house plants for a beginner. It is an excellent plant for a dark room. Although it likes warm conditions, it will grow reasonably in a cool room. It is unaffected by gas and other fumes. It is primarily a climbing plant and throws out many aerial roots, and is therefore ideal for climbing a moss stick. It can, nevertheless, be grown as a bushy plant if the leader is regularly pinched out. Because of its heart-shaped leaves, it is commonly called in England 'the Sweetheart Vine'; in America, it is known as 'the Bathroom Plant' which is a reflection of the living conditions it likes best. A very similar, but what appears to be a larger version of this plant, P. cordatum (oxycardum), 'the Totem Pole Philodendron', is popular in the United States.

There are other climbing philodendrons, some with similar characteristics, but none is quite so easy to grow or as accommodating as P. scandens. The most interesting of the others are: P. bipennifolium which has grey-green foliage and aerial roots. It is fairly easy to grow.

P. elegans. This plant has charming divided foliage. It grows well in shade in an average room.

P. erubescens. Its arrow-shaped leaves have a rosy tinge when young, becoming dark green and purplish. It makes aerial roots. It is fairly easy to grow in average or warm rooms. It is a large plant.

P. laciniatum has medium-sized, dark leaves.
P. leichtlinii is an interesting slender climber with fantastic, evenly slashed, oval leaves, but it is difficult to grow, needing more heat and humidity than can be comfortably supplied in living-rooms.
P. melanochryson (andreanum) has small, dark-purple leaves with a velvet sheen. It grows aerial roots. It needs a warm position continuously. The soil should be kept fairly dry in winter.
Rhoicissus rhomboidea (Cissus rhombifolia, Grape Ivy). This climber, and trailer, if you wish, which has much the same glossy, green, veined foliage as Cissus antarctica, can be distinguished from it by the fact that its leaflets emerge from the stem in groups of three at one point, whereas in Cissus antarctica, they grow singly at intervals along the stalk. It enjoys a centrally-heated room, but it is quite tolerant of any average one. It likes good light, but not direct sunshine. It should be watered freely in the summer and moderately in the winter. It is easy to grow, quick-growing, easy to propagate by layering or by cuttings and is probably the most durable of all house plants.
 
Scindapsus aureus (Devil's Ivy) can quite excusably be mistaken for a variegated philodendron. It does in fact need to be handled in much the same way as these plants. It has heart-shaped, green and yellow leaves. When grown vertically it needs to have the support of a moss stick (totem pole), so that its numerous aerial roots can absorb moisture. Although it is not so happy grown in this fashion, it is probably one of the best house plants to trail over the edge of a dish garden. It is not an easy plant, and does best in slight shade. When it is young the leaves tend to brown at the edges, but if well cared for, this shortcoming is overcome as it becomes established. Its cultivar, S. aureus 'Marble Queen', which has cream leaves flecked with green, is a somewhat slower grower, but has a beautiful form. S. pictus 'Argyraeus', which has silver-spotted leaves, is also very lovely.

Syngonium podophyllum (Nephthytis, Goose Foot). This most attractive plant, with its three-pronged, arrowhead-like, cream-tinted leaves, and many aerial roots, thrives most happily when climbing a moist moss stick. It grows pretty well in warm or average rooms, under normal household conditions. The pot should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Its near relative, S. vellozianum, grows satisfactorily in a fairly shady place.
Tetrastigma voinierianum (Chestnut Vine, Lizard Plant). This derives its name from its dark-green, horsechestnut-shaped leaves, which can measure almost a foot across. It is a fairly large, quick-growing plant and requires plenty of room, which makes it very suitable for large offices, vestibules and shops. It likes good, even light, but not direct sunlight, a large pot, to be well watered in the summer, with infrequent watering in the winter, to be fed regularly with liquid manure in the summer, moist air and warmth.

Tradescantia fluminensis (Wandering Jew, Travelling Sailor, Wandering Plant) is the best known of this species. There are both yellow and white variegated forms as well as green. If the former revert to green, such shoots should be cut off immediately. They are easy to grow in average and warm rooms if given plenty of water in the summer and considerably less in the winter, and good light. They will grow in shade, but they lose a good deal of their beautiful colour. Most tradescantias become straggly and defoliated with age, particularly in a dry atmosphere. They are so easily propagated from cuttings that this can be readily overcome by replacing them from time to time. They are most useful house plants for wall brackets, hanging baskets, trailing over the edge of containers and in bottle gardens. Attractive varieties of T. fluminensis are 'Variegata' (white stripes on green leaves) and 'Aurea' with yellow stripes. T. albiflora, which has leaves with green, pink, and white markings, and its cultivar, 'Tricolor' are also very lovely. A little more difficult to grow is the species, T. blossfeldiana, which has green, glossy leaves that are purple underneath.

Zebrina pendula (formerly Tradescantia zebrina), which is closely related to the tradescantias, is a very beautiful, easily grown plant, that can be used for much the same purposes. The upper surfaces of its leaves are silvery, edged green, with a purple centre stripe and bright purple on their undersides, which colours are appreciably enhanced if the plant is kept a little on the dry side. Z. purpusii has dark-mauve, rather large leaves.